NOTE:
This guide provides a general overview of the installation process for tongue-and-groove flooring. Always refer to the specific installation instructions provided by the manufacturer of the product you are using.

1. INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY

Inspection:
Thoroughly inspect all flooring materials before beginning the installation process. Wood is a natural material with inherent variations in color, tone, and grain. These characteristics are expected and celebrated in a natural wood floor. Despite rigorous quality control procedures at the factory, the final inspection is the responsibility of the installer and the customer. Warranties do not cover defects that are visible before installation.

Required Tools and Accessories:
To ensure a smooth installation process, gather the following tools and accessories:

Broom or vacuum
Chalk line
Tapping block
Hardwood surface cleaner
Hand or electric jamb saw
Miter saw
Moisture meter
Safety glasses
Straight edge
Table saw
Tape measure
Square
Utility knife
Pry bar
Urethane wood flooring adhesive (for glue-down installations)
Towels and trowel (for glue-down installations)
18 gauge, 1 1/4" staples or longer, with a power nailer (for stapling installations)

Caution: Improper use of power nailers can damage the surface of the flooring. Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines and exercise care.

2. JOBSITE CONDITIONS

Acclimation:
Store the engineered hardwood flooring in the room where it will be installed for at least 48 hours before beginning the installation. This allows the flooring to acclimate to the room's temperature and humidity levels.

New Construction:
In new construction, hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed. Ensure that all work involving water or moisture (such as plumbing, plaster/drywall, and painting) is completed well in advance to allow for thorough drying. Heating and air conditioning systems should be fully operational for at least five days prior to acclimating the wood, maintaining a consistent room temperature between 60-80°F and a relative humidity range of 35%-65%.

Delivery and Site Conditions:
Do not deliver flooring materials to the job site until the above conditions are met. It is the installer's and owner's responsibility to ensure that the sub-floor and job site conditions are suitable for wood floor installation. Wood failure resulting from sub-floor, subsurface, or job site deficiencies is the responsibility of the customer.

3. SUB-FLOOR PREPARATION & RECOMMENDATIONS FOR ALL INSTALLATIONS

Concrete Sub-Floors:
New concrete slabs require a minimum of 60 days drying time before covering them with wood flooring.
Lightweight concrete with a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot is only suitable for engineered wood floors when using the floating installation method. Test lightweight concrete by scraping a coin or key across the surface; if it powders easily or has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot, use only the floating installation method.

Concrete sub-floors must be dry, smooth (level within 3/16” over a 10-foot radius or 1/8” over a 6-foot radius), and free of structural defects. Remove loose, flaky concrete by hand scraping or sanding with 20-grit #3-1/2 open face paper. Grind high spots and fill low spots with a Portland-based leveling compound (minimum 3,000 psi). Ensure the concrete is free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease, dirt, and curing compounds. Do not use solvent-based strippers. Ensure a proper bond between the adhesive and concrete.

Wood Sub-Floors:
Wood sub-floors should be well-nailed or secured with screws. Use ring shank nails or countersunk screws.
The sub-floor must be structurally sound, dry, and free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease, dirt, urethane, and varnish. The moisture content should not exceed 13% prior to installation.
If the subfloor is a single layer less than 3/4” thick, add a cross layer for strength and stability (minimum 5/16” thick for a total thickness of 1”).
Suitable sub-floors include underlayment grade OSB (not the wax side). Particleboard is not acceptable for staple-down or glue-down installations but can be used for floating installations. When installing over existing wood flooring, install at right angles to the existing floor.

Sub-Floor Moisture Check:
Test for moisture in several locations within the installation area. Acceptable conditions are less than 3 lbs./1000 sq. ft./24 hrs. on a calcium chloride test or less than a reading of 5.0 on a Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter. Wood substrates must have a moisture reading of less than 13%, and the wood flooring moisture content should be within 4% of the sub-floor moisture content. Correct any moisture problems before proceeding.

4. PREPARATION

Remove Moldings and Wall-Base:
Remove all moldings and wall-base. Undercut all door casings with a hand or power jamb saw using a scrap piece of flooring as a guide.

Racking the Floor:
For a natural appearance, use random length planks or cut planks in random lengths, ensuring a minimum of 6” between end joints on adjacent rows. Blend wood from several cartons to ensure a uniform mix of grain and shading.

5. INSTALLATION METHODS

5.1 Glue Down Installation Guidelines

Wet Lay Method:

Select a Starter Wall:
Start along an exterior wall for best alignment. Measure out the width of two planks, mark each end, and snap a chalk line.

Spread Adhesive:
Apply adhesive from the chalk line to the starter wall using the adhesive manufacturer’s recommended trowel at a 45° angle to ensure proper spread and bond.

Install Starter Rows:
Place the first row of planks with the tongue facing the starter wall. Secure with a straight edge or by top nailing.

Continue Installation:
Spread 2.5 to 3 feet of adhesive and place planks, fitting them snugly with a tapping block. Avoid “H” patterns and other discernible patterns in adjacent rows. Stagger end joints from row to row a minimum of 6-8” for 3” to 5” wide planks, and 8-10” for planks wider than 5” for a better appearance when possible. Clean adhesive off the surface before it cures.

Dry Lay Method:

Select a Starter Wall:
Measure out 30” from the wall for 5” planks and snap a chalk line.

Apply Adhesive:
Spread adhesive and allow it to flash per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Secure Starter Rows:
Secure with a straight edge and install planks. After installation, remove the straight edges and spread adhesive on the remaining sub-floor.

Clean-Up:
Clean adhesive as you go using white terry cloth towels and mineral spirits. For cured adhesive, use a urethane remover.

5.2 Staple Down Installations

Recommended Staplers:
Use an 18 gauge, 1 1/4" staple or longer with a power stapler.

Steps:

Stapling:
Staple 1”-2” from the ends and every 6”-8” along the edges. Set the compressor PSI at 80-85 lbs.

Install Polyethylene:
Lay 6-mil polyethylene parallel to the flooring direction, overlapping each run by 6”.

Layout the Job:
Measure and snap a chalk line 3.5” from the starting wall for 5” planks.

Begin Installation:
Leave an expansion space around the perimeter. Secure the first row with brads or small finishing nails. Blind nail through the tongues at a 45° angle.

Continue Installation:
Use a stapler to staple 1”-2” from the ends and every 6”-8” along the edge tongues.

Final Touches:
Install trim molding at doorways and along walls. Use wood filler to fill gaps and clean the floor with a professional cleaner.
5.3 Installing as a Floating Floor

Subfloor Preparation:
Ensure the subfloor is flat to 1/8 inch in 10 feet. High areas should be ground down, and low areas filled with a latex-fortified Portland leveling compound.

Underlayment:
Use a suitable 2-in-1 underlayment padding.

Expansion Space:
Maintain an expansion space of at least 3/8 inch around the perimeter and around fixed objects.

Glue and Placement:
Use Tongue and Groove engineered flooring glue. Apply a 3/32-inch bead of glue along the topside of the groove.

Getting Started:
Use spacers to maintain the expansion space. Install the first three rows and allow the glue to set before proceeding.

Clean as You Go:
Clean any glue squeeze-out immediately. Allow glue to dry for 10-15 minutes before lightly scraping it away.

6. NOTES FOR RADIANT FLOOR INSTALLATION

Radiant Heating Systems:
Engineered hardwood flooring (excluding Brazilian Cherry and Maple) can be installed over radiant heating systems. Consult with your radiant flooring dealer to ensure compatibility.

Preparation:
Prepare subfloors as per the Glue-down or Floating Installation instructions. For beam and joist floors, ensure fasteners do not damage heating elements.

Precautions: