Herringbone Flooring Installation Guide

NOTE: This guide provides a general overview of the installation process for herringbone-style flooring. Always refer to the specific installation instructions provided by the manufacturer of your product.

Title

1. INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY

Inspection: Before beginning, thoroughly inspect all herringbone flooring materials for defects. Claims will not be accepted for issues visible prior to installation.

Required Tools and Accessories:

  • Broom or vacuum 
  • Chalk line or plumb line 
  • Tapping block 
  • Flooring cleaner 
  • Miter saw or table saw 
  • Utility knife 
  • Straight edge 
  • Tape measure 
  • Pry bar 
  • Safety glasses 
  • Carpenter square 
  • 150 lb. roller (for adhesive installations)

Caution: Improper use of tools can damage the surface of the flooring. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and exercise care.

2. JOBSITE CONDITIONS

Acclimation: Store herringbone patterns in the installation area at room temperature (60–80 °F) and relative humidity (35%–65%) for at least 48–72 hours before installation.

New Construction: Ensure all wet-work (plaster, paint, plumbing) is complete and thoroughly dry. Maintain temperature and humidity control throughout installation.

3. SUBFLOOR PREPARATION & RECOMMENDATIONS

Concrete Subfloors: Must be fully cured (minimum 60 days), flat (within 3/16" over a 10-ft radius or 1/8" over a 6-ft radius), clean, dry, and free from contaminants. Use grind or patching compound as needed.

Wood Subfloors: Structurally sound, well-sealed, and securely fastened (nails or screws). Moisture content should not exceed 12–13%. Ensure surface is clean and free of adhesives, wax, paint, or finishes.

Sub-Floor Moisture Check: Test for moisture in several locations within the installation area. Acceptable conditions are less than 3 lbs./1000 sq. ft./24 hrs. on a calcium chloride test or less than a reading of 5.0 on a Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter. Wood substrates must have a moisture reading of less than 13%, and the vinyl flooring moisture content should be within 4% of the sub-floor moisture content. Correct any moisture problems before proceeding.

4. PREPARATION

  • Maintain a ¼" (6 mm) expansion gap around all vertical surfaces (walls, columns, pipes). 
  • In large rooms (over 65 linear feet or over 4,200 sq ft), increase to ½" (12 mm) and use expansion moldings as needed. 
  • Under-cut door casings to allow flooring to slide underneath, maintaining the expansion gap.

5. FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION

Step 1 – Establish the First Row

  1. Determine the room’s true center using a chalk or plumb line. 
  2. Offset 5 mm to the right for tongue depth. 
  3. Create a square template (e.g., plywood) and align it diagonally over the center guide—secure in place. 
  4. Apply adhesive (if glue-down) ahead of the template. 
  5. Place the first plank with tongue against the left side of the template; place the second plank with tongue facing outward, pressed tightly.
  6. Continue alternating left/right planks to form the herringbone “V” along the center line. 
  7. Tap planks tightly with a tapping block; lift periodically to confirm full adhesive contact. 
  8. Clean excess adhesive immediately. 
  9. Allow this row to set and cure—this forms your fixed reference.

Step 2 – Continue the Pattern

  1. Dry-lay the second row to confirm alignment. 
  2. Apply adhesive to the exposed area next to the first row. 
  3. Install half the second row at one end wall, locking the tongues and grooves into the first row. 
  4. Repeat the process on the opposite side. 
  5. Continue filling outward from the center, cutting perimeter planks as needed while maintaining expansion gaps. 
  6. For optional borders, cut clean edges with a plunge saw and groove to receive trim.

6. COMPLETION & AFTERCARE

  • No traffic for 24 hours post-installation. 
  • Cover the finished floor with breathable material until all construction is complete. 
  • Installer and homeowner acceptance is assumed once flooring is laid.